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I created this account just to post this. Recently on my Sport bike, the resistance knob stopped working. It would spin freely, but the resistance would not change and was stuck at some low number (or it would change briefly, then pop back to the low number). Pushing on the knob WOULD engage the brake/full 32 level resistance. Here is the deal.

1. On the Sport bike, the resistance knob is basically a threaded rod that moves magnets further or closer to the flywheel as you turn it. It does this by threading through a rectangular block that sits inside the square shaft through which the resistance knob rod passes down to the flywheel. When you thread tighter, the rod moves downward pushing the magnets down and increases resistance. When you thread looser, the rod moves upward allowing the magnets to move further from the flywheel decreasing resistance. A spring keeps the magnet mechanism tight up against the end of the rod. There is no mechanical connection which means you can pull the entire assembly right out without removing the plastic body panels of the bike (yay!).

2. If your resistance knob is just spinning on the sport bike, it may be that the threaded rectangular nut is stripped so when you turn the knob, the rod no longer moves up and down, but if you push it, it will still move the magnets up and down. This was the case with mine. Therefore, the fix is to replace this stripped nut. Echelon, however, does not issue/sell parts for the Sport bike.

3. Good news is, it is a fairly simple fix once you figure out what the problem is. The hardest part is finding a suitable replacement for the odd rectangular nut, and what you need is an M8 threaded nut that will fit inside BUT will not rotate inside a 17mm square opening. This is uncommon, but I found that a cage nut for a server rack (two of them actually) works perfectly. Like this one: Amazon.com: uxcell M8 Cage Nuts for Server Rack Cabinet, Carbon Steel Yellow Zinc Plated, Pack of 10 : Industrial & Scientific

Directions:

1. Twist the plastic cowl that surrounds the resistance knob out of the way (with a LOT of force LOL) so you can see two small screws (one on either side) on the square metal tube the rod goes into. You need to remove both of these small screws. Once you do, you can freely pull the entire resistance knob, threaded rod, and all the nuts/spaces straight out. Easy.

2. Once you do that, you will notice there is a cap nut on the end of the assembly. Note it will be greasy. You will also see some other nuts, round spacers, and the big block looking rectangular nut we need to replace. I recommend you take a photo of this so you can see the order of things as you will need to put it back together later the same way.

3. You will need a torch (or maybe a gas stove?). The cap nut is on with permanent threadlocker. You need to heat it up to get it off. Just get it super hot and it will come right off holding the rod with some pliers and a wrench on the nut. Heat it up and remove, then remove everything so you can get the big rectangular nut off. That rectangular nut is the problem.

4. In place of the rectangular nut, take TWO of the cage nuts I linked above (or other M8 x 17/18mm square cage nuts) and invert them to each other so that the cages "interlock". In other words point one towards the ceiling and one towards the floor and rotate one 90 degrees and nestle them together. You will notice this is just about the same size as the stripped rectangular nut. Now, thread them on the resistance knob rod whilst keeping them in this fashion so they a) spin freely on the rod and b) take up roughly the same amount of space on the rod as the stripped rectangular nut. The goal here is that once they are in the square tube, the rod turns but these nuts cannot turn.

5. Put everything else back in the order you found it on the rod, tighten on the cap nut, and put the resistance knob back down the square tube on the bike. You can either leave the cowl off and put the two screws back in, or put the plastic cowl back on and f* with it until you get the two little screws back in...up to you. I left the cowl off as it is purely aesthetic.

That's it. Your knob should now move things up and down like it used to though it may spin a little easier now, but it will work. Hope this helps someone. This only works on the Sport/Prime/15 bike as far as I know. Not sure about any other bikes.

Good luck!
 
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